The UNESCO Spreewald Biosphere Reserve is one of my favourite destinations in Brandenburg. Situated in the Lausitz region, it is steeped in nature, history and culture, offering visitors plenty to do throughout the year. What stands out the most to me, though, is the water-rich landscape formed during the last Ice Age and the unmistakable presence of Sorbian languages and customs, thanks to Slavic tribes who put down roots here after the great migration in the 6th century.
Over the years, I’ve been to the Spreewald several times for kayaking, canoeing, trekking, and cycling. I love how easily accessible Spreewald is from Berlin by public transport, with regional trains directly taking us to the main towns in the reserve within approximately an hour. You could even cycle from Berlin to Lübben along the 68 km Hofjagdweg that starts in Königs Wusterhausen.
In October this year, J and I took our bikes on the train from Berlin to Lübben, then cycled 68 km along the Gurkenradweg (Gherkin Bike Trail) through Lübbenau, Burg and Vetschau before reaching Cottbus. If you wish, you could of course cycle the full Gurkenradweg at 260 km long or split it however way you like. Check out example legs and the GPX route on the official Spreewald tourism site.
On leaving the Lübben train station, we simply had to follow the cucumber-on-bike sign in yellow.
The downtown of Lübben was deserted that Sunday morning. We saw this fascinating old monument that specifies how far each neighbouring town/city is from Lübben in hours. For example, you’d need 58 and 3/8 hours to walk from Lübben to Prague! We later on saw a similar monument in Lübbenau.
Many signs in public places in the Spreewald are in German and Sorbian/Wendish, thanks to the region’s Slavic settlers. If you’re curious as to how the language sounds, listen to RBB’s radio programme in Sorbian here. It sounds similar to the Polish language to my undiscerning ears.
The port of Lübben looked relatively empty when we got there, although a couple of boats seemed to still be operational late in the season. Boat trips, punting, kayaking and canoeing are all very popular in the Spreewald from April to October, and there are some boat trips that take you through magical landscape in winter too.
Gorgeous autumn colours outside the Lübbenau tourist information centre. As mentioned in one of my previous posts, the Spreewald is home to Brandenburg’s most beautiful autumn colours.
We crossed many channels on this trip, thanks to Spreewald’s waterways which total 1,500 km long.
It was a chilly and windy day so I was grateful for a bowl of warm pumpkin soup when we reached Lübbenau after 14 km.
The cycling path on the Gurkenradweg is quite flat and smooth most of the time, even in the forest area. Nonetheless, I wouldn’t ride a fixie or a fancy city bike here because some parts could get muddy and gross.
This self-service kiosk usually offers some fresh vegetables, but it was unfortunately empty when we passed it. The sign says “Kasse des Vertrauens” a.k.a. Honesty Box, because you simply leave your cash at the kiosk once you grab a purchase.
I found the “Fahrradpause” (bicycle break) sign and the pumpkin adorable.
Gherkin and pumpkin decorations too cute for words.
Our next stop was Raddusch.
Some canoeing enthusiasts were undeterred by the chill of autumn.
Beautiful old mill (now bakery and museum) in Raddusch.
From Raddusch, we continued to Vetschau and stopped for lunch at an old brewery. I can’t remember why I didn’t order trout like I usually do in Brandenburg, but I went for french fries and turkey schnitzel with mushroom. J had soused herring (Matjes in German) and boiled potatoes.
We then found another self-service kiosk, this time outside a beekeeping premise. Here we grabbed a hokkaido pumpkin (which fits into J’s bike bag) for 1 EUR.
We reached Cottbus in late afternoon amidst a slight drizzle and spent a few minutes warming ourselves up with a cup of coffee in the old town, before heading back to Berlin by train. We’ll be back in the Spreewald before long, I’m sure!
Watch the highlights of our ride here.
Key stats and stops
Distance traveled: 68 km
Total ascent: 138 m
Total descent: 112 m
Max altitude: 78 m
Terrain: Paved and smooth (tarmac/asphalt) 60% of the time, unpaved soil in the forest, cobblestone in the old towns. Flat typical of Brandenburg.
Bike guide: Spreewald tourism site
Old mill (now bakery and museum) in Raddusch: Radduscher Buschmühle on Kaupen 1E, 03226 Vetschau/Spreewald
Soup/snack: Gasthof Mühle on Dammstraße 2, 03222 Lübbenau/Spreewald
Lunch: Altes Brauhaus on Markt 30a, 03226 Vetschau/Spreewald
Coffee & cake: Eiscafe da Capo on Marktstraße 14, 03046 Cottbus
